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Lelong remained vocal in his view of fashions importance in giving France an appearance of serenitythe more elegant French women arethe more our country will showit does not fear the future. Schiaparelli likened fashion to resistance: every hat that used up material was a slap in the face of the Nazis. Berlin appeared to view occupied Paris as a fashion bread-basket: over 200 Nazi wives acquired special permission cards to buy fashion from its salons