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Even though the ever-so-popular metal boned corsets were gradually being replaced by a girdle made of two-way stretch elastic, and as WWII approached, women needed more flexibility in their movement, they were still more than eager to create the hourglass silhouette of a small waist, broad shoulders and full hips

Wherever two portions of the stuff are brought together, there must be a certain fullness produced by a box-pleat or by gathers, and on this depends a good part of the richness in the folds of the resultant costume